Food|Reconsidering the Radish: New Ways to Tame Its Bite
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By Jack Bishop
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RADISHES have been cultivated for so long that they actually predate written history. By the time Confucius wrote about them in the fifth century B.C., they were a staple crop in Asia.
Today, radishes turn up in Mexican, Indian, Chinese, Japanese, Thai, North African, French, Italian and Russian cookbooks, but they are barely on the culinary radar in this country.
In France roasted radishes are a delicious addition to a vegetable ragout with carrots and white beans. In Japan, radishes are braised in dashi, sake and soy sauce as a bracing side dish for fish or meat. In India, shredded radishes are seasoned with chilies, ginger and toasted spices to make a filling for paratha.
Even when used raw, radishes get better treatment elsewhere. In Mexico, they are paired with avocado and lime juice in a simple salad of contrasting flavors and textures. Greek restaurants offer sliced radishes with fennel for scooping a feta cheese dip.
Radishes are thought to have been cultivated in Europe since the late Stone Age. The ancient Egyptians grew them for the oil that could be pressed from the seeds.
Despite this history, Americans barely bother with radishes. Although the consumption of fresh vegetables is on the rise over all in the United States, sales of radishes have actually declined slightly.
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